What Your Skin is Actually Craving — Based on the Skin Renewal Cycle

Introduction

In our era of ever-changing skincare trends and social media, we are constantly surrounded by messages about what products are best for our skin. Questions about how to reduce fine lines, prevent wrinkles, and maintain luminosity linger, leading many people to adopt extended routines in hopes of achieving better skin. But the real question remains: is doing more for your skin actually worth it?

The truth is, our skin evolves in cycles and so do its needs. There are four main phases of our skin’s biological renewal process; proliferation, migration, differentiation, and desquamation. These phases map the skin’s regenerative process from new cell formation to shedding. Following a skincare routine tailored to the skin’s natural cycle can provide the same benefits as using a routine with a multitude of products.

Skincare Routines That Do Too Much

Modern skincare culture often encourages layered activities and the use of trending products. With a new product always circulating, people are constantly editing their routine. However, mixing multiple products can be harsh for the skin and lead to the issues people were originally trying to avoid.

Product overuse can lead to more damage than we realize, ranging from slight irritation to interferences with our skin’s natural microbiome. Part of our skin health can be attributed to the range of microorganisms our skin houses. Damaging these organisms can trigger dysbiosis, an organism imbalance, with acne and eczema being common side effects presenting as sensitivity and redness.

Other issues that can arise include skin irritation and a disrupted skin barrier, which is why tailoring a routine to the skin’s biological process brings skincare back to the basics and prioritizes the skin’s actual needs.

Why Dermatologists Push Retinoids

While retinoids have been around for years, there has been a recent increase in their prevalence in over-the-counter products. Retinoids are derived from vitamin A, a known source of nourishment for the skin. Our skin’s natural collagen production declines as we age, leading to a loss in firmness and glow and over time, fine lines and wrinkles.

Though a prescription is needed for stronger retinoids such as tretinoin, many dermatologists are happy to oblige, as Stanford dermatologist Zakia Rahman explains that “retinoids encourage skin cells to divide more rapidly, building up the protective top layer of skin.” In addition to prescriptions, there are also various retinoids available over the counter.

Retinoids are often used for issues such as acne, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and texture, making them a highly encouraged product by dermatologists. The potency and science-backed benefits of retinoids continue to perpetuate them as one of the most highly effective products in maintaining a solid skin texture and tone.

The Skin Renewal Cycle

While retinoid use is encouraged, it’s important to know how and when to use it. There are four main phases of our skin’s biological cycle; proliferation, migration, differentiation, and desquamation. Each phase plays a unique role in how the skin responds to products and determines how the skin looks and feels.

In the skin’s phase of proliferation, new keratinocytes originate in the basal layer. This is the skin’s growth phase where it takes the time to repair and regenerate.

In migration, the newly generated cells move from the deep layers of the skin to the epidermis. The skin prepares and organizes its cell structure so the cells can support barrier function.

In the differentiation phase, the keratinocytes evolve into protective cells called corneocytes that form the skin’s outer layer (stratum corneum), helping to prevent moisture loss.

Finally, in desquamation, the skin sheds old cells in order for new ones to be regenerated. This is where the skin can become the most rough and dry.

What Happens When Retinoids Are Used Too Often

When it comes to retinoid use, less is more. Overuse of a retinoid can lead to uncomfortable side effects with some online skincare communities reporting that retinoids “completely destroyed [their] skin barrier” and “led to perioral dermatitis”.

Frequent use of retinoids can cause gaps in the proteins and lipids that make up the skin’s barrier. According to Dr. Jennifer Holman, a board-certified dermatologist, this damage can contribute to “chronic skin conditions or struggle[s] with skin health issues like dry skin, frequent infections, or generally poor wound healing.” (US Dermatology Partners).

What Skin Actually Needs at Different Stages

Skin renewal is a constant process, and instead of overloading your skin with unnecessary products, it is best to meet your skin where it’s at.

As the skin begins to shed its old cells, hydration is vital for maintaining smoothness and a glowy complexion. The flaky and tight sensation that develops as the skin enters desquamation, is often mistaken for a need to exfoliate when it may actually signal dehydration or barrier disruption. Exfoliation and retinoids are important steps in caring for your skin, but not all at once. Dermatologists explain that it is best to cycle through products instead of mixing them together.

The trending regimen of “skin-cycling” explains how to do just that, and notes that using minimal products on separate nights can maximize the benefits.

Where Skin Cycling Fits In

Skin cycling is one dermatologist-led approach designed to support the skin’s natural renewal process without product overuse. The method follows a four-night rotation: exfoliation, retinoid use, two nights of recovery, and then repeat.

Rather than attempting to address every skin concern at once, skin cycling spaces out active ingredients and prioritizes recovery. Ohio State University Dermatologist, Susan Massick, explains that this approach “allows each step to be effective” while reducing the risk of irritation caused by overuse.

With exfoliants, gentler formulas lessen irritation in individuals with sensitive skin. However, for those who do opt for a physical exfoliant, skin cycling spreads the product use over the span of a few days, giving the skin time to adjust to harsher products.

For the second night of skin cycling, retinoids are necessary. Retinoids are responsible for aiding cell turnover and making the skin look smoother and tighter. Since retinoids can be intense on the skin, it can be helpful to start out with a gentler variation. A squalene based retinoid, which provides moisture and protection, or a retinoid capsule, is calmer on the skin, as the formula is delivered over time.

Medical literature consistently supports that retinoids should be used sparingly rather than nightly. Oftentimes, two to three nights a week is adequate for topical use. This frequency gives the skin enough time to adjust to the intensive formulas of retinoids without compromising the skin barrier and causing irritation. For this reason, the last two nights of skin cycling are essential for restoring hydration, as the skin undergoes lipid reorganization during desquamation. Lipid reorganization is an “important contributor to the skin barrier function,” (National Library of Medicine) further emphasizing the importance of rehydrating the skin.

For nights three and four, moisturizers provide the necessary hydration. Key ingredients to look for in moisturizers are hyaluronic acid and squalene as they help combat dryness.

The Takeaway

Too much experimentation and overwhelming your skin with products can cause more harm than good. Sometimes, the healthiest skin can come from staying true to its cycle, and giving your skin the support it needs along the way.

Leave the Chemicals to the Professionals: The Dangers of DIY Skincare

We’ve seen the DIY (Do it yourself) side of TikTok, where you can make skincare if you have the willpower and the ingredients in your pantry…or bathroom — we all remember the time when we put toothpaste on our pimples. The danger of the DIY skincare tutorials, however, is when an unqualified person attempts to replicate skincare formulas by combining chemicals and properties. Among the many DIY skincare ideas on social media, hyaluronic acid serums, sunscreen and facial cleansers are a constant. It’s true that some homemade skincare is safe to put on the skin, but this doesn’t mean it will be as effective or as safe as formulas created by cosmetic chemists.

The secondhand harm we see is misguided influence — the virality of some of these posts urging people to try these at-home remedies. Though some of these videos only have hundreds or thousands of likes, the exposure and reach it gets is enough to steer people to use these DIY methods without any research or thought put into it. Influence isn’t the only harmful aspect of DIY skincare; homemade formulas pose risks like contamination, skin irritation, and harm to the skin barrier.

Most importantly, the ratios of skincare formulas matter. Cosmetic chemists create skincare formulas in a lab because it’s a sterile and controlled environment, without that environment it leaves factors unaccounted for and leaves a product vulnerable to degrade or change. In this article, we will dissect how and why DIY skincare is putting people’s skin at risk, the potential consequences of it, and why we should leave this innovation to the experts.

What are the Risks?

Natural ingredients and chemical-based ingredients can equally affect your skin health and disrupt your skin’s pH. This is why it’s important to consult a dermatologist and really understand how your skin interacts with certain ingredients.

Mixing chemicals without doing the proper research is the biggest reason why DIY skincare has become so dangerous. With factors like affordability and distrust in certain ingredients or chemicals, this is major reason people veer towards using natural ingredients for DIY skincare, which isn’t technically dangerous, but by using these homemade remedies it subjects your skin to other risks.

1. Contamination

- In the cosmetic consumer industry protection against pathogenic microorganisms(bacteria) is vital. That’s why preservatives are used in cosmetic products to ensure it’s safe to use — especially on the face.

- Homemade skincare products made without these preservatives make the shelf life astronomically shorter than any store-bought skincare product

- Bacteria thrive in most environments, which is why homemade lotions, face washes or serums — anything with a water-base — are likely to eventually grow fungi or bacteria possibly causing infection.

- Waterless products run a risk for contamination without a preservative, especially if they’re kept in a moist environment like a bathroom.

2. Skin irritation and allergic reactions

- Acidic ingredients like lemon juice or coarse ingredients like salt or coffee grounds, are known to irritate the skin. This can cause hyperpigmentation or damage to the skin barrier.

- Everyone’s skin is different therefore you never know how your skin is going to react to ingredients, even if they’re deemed simple.

Ratios Matter!

The key to making an effective skincare product is the ratio. A kitchen does not compare to a lab, and simple measurements do not compare to understanding how complex chemicals and ingredients interact with one another.

To make an effective product it must have ingredients that aim to target concerns such as acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, or oiliness or dryness. Ingredients used to combat these concerns are called active ingredients — “substances responsible for providing benefits to the skin.” This includes exfoliants such as salicylic acid and glycolic acid, which break down bonds between dead skin cells, allowing for skin renewal; moisturizers like ceramides, petrolatum and hyaluronic acid, that help skin maintain hydration; and antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E and retinol (vitamin A), that protect the skin from free radicals, such as aging, radiation, pollution etc. The formulation development for a skincare product selects active ingredients based on the compatibility of skin types and ingredients, as well as keeping the stability of the product in mind.

Another aspect of creating an efficient formula is the concentration of the active ingredients being used. Unlike DIY skincare, measurements of active ingredients pertaining to a skincare formula are measured and weighed to target specific skin issues for maximum efficiency. The concentration of an ingredient is the percentage of active ingredients in a product. High concentration products are made to tackle skin issues at a faster capacity than low concentrationproducts, but that’s when the need for ratio balance is most needed. When you look at the ingredient list of a skincare product it’s required by the FDA to list the ingredients with the highest concentration to the lowest, from top to bottom. In comparison, DIY skincare does not remotely use the same scale as a cosmetic chemist would to balance these formulas using active ingredients. Not only is chemical-based DIY skincare dangerous to skin health, but it can also be ineffective if the ratios are off.

Conclusion

DIY skincare appeals to people because it can be seen as sustainable or “natural skincare” that’s inexpensive, but what is not realized is that these remedies though they are advertised this way; they do not benefit every skin type. The dangerous side of DIY skincare is the loose use of active ingredients and chemicals that will either be ineffective or dangerous for the skin. Cosmetic chemists are the reason we have a wide selection of safe and effective products to choose from. Though DIY skincare can classify as a form of traditional medicine for cultures and can be an effective use of the DIY craft, this isn’t a universal method. The essential problem with DIY skincare is the use of chemicals by the hands of people who do not fully understand the important methods used by cosmetic chemists and skincare manufacturers.

Only you and your dermatologist know the limits of your skin, so make sure you are informed when putting foreign ingredients on your skin. But please, leave the chemicals to the professionals, who aim to keep your skin safe, happy and healthy.

The Psychology Behind Why the West Is Obsessed With Eastern Beauty Norms

What if the West’s fixation with Eastern beauty isn’t about the search for better skin or what the next product can be added onto an already lengthened routine, but rather about a dissatisfaction with its own? Somewhere between the focus on procuring a “glass skin” complexion and a multi-step skincare ritual, Western consumers have decided that Eastern beauty philosophies–longevity, balance, and simplicity–are a universal answer.

Science doesn’t belong to any specific culture, so why do certain beauty routines insist otherwise?

Breaking it Down

It’s helpful to break down this framework by examining what it means when skincare is labeled as “Western” or “Eastern.” Partly created for marketing tactics and consumer categorization, the reality behind this classification is far less binary. While these terms tend to flatten diverse regions into antithetical ideals, they are often used to represent the postulated dichotomy that Western beauty practices are active and corrective — shorter routines that fulfill faster results — while Eastern practices are preventative and preservative, with a focus on extensively holistic methods that evolve into long-term skin protection.

This commercialized distinction between these two approaches can be simplified when understood through a physiological lens. Composed of multiple cell types, structural proteins, lipids, and water, the human skin is a complex organ composed of three primary layers — all universally functioning through processes that work to defend and protect the skin barrier. The line between Western and Eastern skincare is conceptual rather than biological, as these processes remain constant regardless of geographical or cultural customs.

While skin physiology is fundamentally universal, certain biophysical characteristics (barrier response, pigmentation, and sebum production) can vary across individuals. A review published in the IFSCC Magazine examined differences in skin structure andfunction across individual populations, noting variations in pigmentation and melanin production, as well as barrier behavior. However, these differences often overlap, and are influenced by genetics and environment rather than traditional or cultural skincare practices.

When biology fails to justify the divide, psychology intervenes. The West’s increasing fixation on Eastern health and beauty norms is rooted in perception and dissatisfaction, with overconsumption and immediacy fading as the desire for restraint and long-term maintenance takes the helm.

Tools and their Efficacy

The gua sha and jade roller are two Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) tools that experienced a surge in popularity within Western beauty markets, driven primarily by K-beauty retailers and social media visibility. Often marketed as modern innovations, these traditional facial sculpting tools have existed for centuries–their purpose of wellness and circulation remaining consistent throughout the years.

From a dermatological standpoint, both tools function through physical and mechanical stimulation of the skin. A dermatological study examining facial sculpting tools and techniques describe their intended method of use:

“Gua sha treatment uses a polished jade stone to scrape skin gently. Jade rollers resemble a small paint roller made of jade stone used to massage skin. Both methods require an upward and outward motion to reduce inflammation, improve skin complexion, and decrease wrinkles.”

When used with gentle pressure, gua sha and jade rollers can increase superficial blood flow and encourage short-term lymphatic drainage, which may temporarily reduce facial puffiness and contribute to a more refreshed appearance. Additional research following gua sha treatment has shown a significant increase in surface microcirculation, meaning improved blood flow and oxygen delivery to the skin, further suggesting enhanced nutrient delivery and a boost in skin vitality.

According to an article medically reviewed by dermatologist Dr. Jabeen Begum, similar techniques are often used by licensed acupuncturists, physical therapists, and chiropractors:“Instead of gua sha, you might hear it called instrument-assisted soft tissue mobilization (IASTM). A small tool is used to help loosen up tight muscles or areas of scar tissue.”.

Frequently praised for their results of lifted features and permanent contouring, dermatological research suggests that these facial sculpting effects are not 100% permanent. The visible benefits, such as reduced puffiness and redness, mostly develop due to increased blood circulation and lymphatic movements rather than true structural changes to the face.

Touch-based practices — such as the gua sha and jade roller — have exhibited their activation of the parasympathetic nervous system, further contributing to stress reduction and an overall improved perception of well-being. When adopted into a Western consumer lens, these sculpting tools seem to shift in meaning. Removed from their traditional medical and cultural context, they become rebranded as beauty accessories rather than wellness practices. Still, their popularity in Western markets reflects the broader desire for simpler and gentler approaches to skincare.

Getting Ready: The Layered Ritual of the Multi-Step Routine

Multi-step skincare regimens are another notable aspect that have been popularized by Western consumers looking to Korea for their K-beauty tips and tricks. Often referred to as the “10-step routine,” this approach to skincare originated in South Korea as a flexible framework rather than a rigid prescription. Despite its specific name and portrayal as the direction to achieving “glass skin,” the routine does not require ten steps to be incorporated into a daily schedule. By layering product categories based on skin type and individual need, the skin receives treatment and protection in a controlled manner.

At its core, the routine prioritizes maintaining barriers and promoting long-term skin health over aggressive correction. For many, a regimen consisting of a gentle cleanser, hydrating moisturizer, and a clean sunscreen with SPF might be more than enough. The “10 steps” function less as a mandate and more as an option rather than an expectation. A typical “glass skin” routine begins with the lightest products first (cleansing, exfoliating, and using toners), then layering on the typically thicker products (serums, masks, eye creams, moisturizers, and sunscreens), but the placement and inclusion of these steps tend to vary based on individual needs. Similar to facial tools and ritualized application, layering skincare turns reactive maintenance into an intentional, patient practice that is customized for each skin type.

Analyzing the Psychology

It’s no surprise that the Western world’s healthy fixation on Eastern beauty culture is a response to something lacking within its own wellness and skincare industry. Kaley Roshitsh writes about this awareness shift in Women’s Wear Daily:

“The U.S., be it as a consumer or corporation, has a growing obsession with Eastern culture right now.”

The dramatic before-and-after transformation, rapid and visible results, and targeted treatment are attitudes that dominate Western skincare, demonstrating a psychological methodology toward efficiency and productivity. Conversely, many Eastern beauty philosophies frame the relationship with skin as a practice of maintenance and patience, rather than treating the skin as an obstacle to solve. Psychologically, this habitude changes a reactive mindset to one of prevention and diligence. Instead of a technical routine, the mindful and structural mindset turn skincare into a holistic experience.

Western consumers are tired of the outcome-driven skincare standards and are searching for the calmness and care that ties into well-being.

So… Is the Obsession Sensible, Scientifically?

When examined objectively, the East–West divergence in beauty and skincare becomes more of a matter of perception. Skin functions the same physiologically, while blood circulation, lymphatic drainage, and barrier repair remain constant — it’s not a difference in science, but rather a difference in framing. Facial sculpting tools like gua sha and jade rollers are effective not because they are inherently “Eastern” or “Western,” but because their mechanical stimulation produces consistent, physical responses in human tissue.

Instead of replacing one system with another, modern skincare culture is unifying and moving towards integration. The growing interest of Eastern wellness philosophies and skincare culture highlights a breakaway from established priorities and into a transformation of how people care and understand for themselves — both internally and externally.

The fascination with Eastern beauty norms reflects a difference in cultural storytelling rather than a scientific necessity — at the end of the day, this fixation highlights a gradualshift away from immediacy and correction toward mindfulness and intention in skincare rituals.